A SUNDAY DAY OUT

MORNING STROLL
This morning started with a breakfast of hand-made bread and goats cheese from yesterday's Farmers' market. Then it was time for a morning stroll. My destination was Letenske sady, a park which overlooks the city from the north. Perhaps the park would have been better name Letenske "sadly" because the lookout, which house a very strange giant pendulum was in a state of disrepair. Despite the undeniable beauty of Prague there are aspects where are run-down. For example, roads can be badly surfaced by then lined by perfectly paved cobble stone paths. The subway system is in need of a face lift and just doesn't have the efficiency of Vienna. Then I noticed on the way to Prague from Vienna the countryside looked neglected from a government point of view. So the vision of a perfect city is not quite right.

MUSEUM AND GALLERY
Anyway, I continued on my way and dropped into the newly re-opened National Technical Museum. Of particular note was their exhibition on astronomy which included audio-visual displays that traced the study of outer space from Ancient Egypt, through to Galileo in Italy and right up to the latest Hubble telescope. It also included a comprehensive collection of different measurement implements from sundials to telescopes. It was a remarkably humbling experience and puts the evolution of science within context, a good follow-on from Strahovska Library yesterday. By presenting different remote sensing techniques, from X-ray to Infrared to Optical telescopes, you begin to recognise how our biological senses conditions our perception of the world. Technology is expanding our senses and causing advancement more rapid than any other period. If we manage to avoid ecological collapse this advancement is sure to continue and perhaps as we transcend our obsession with consumerism we will be able think and live on entirely new levels ... perhaps the futuristic visions of sci-fi films, including Avatar, not so distant.

I then visited the Veletrzni Palace which is said to host the city's best collection of modern art. I do not disagree, in fact it is probably the best collection of art I have ever visited. The first exhibition, Across Today (website), presented contemporary art from around the world addressing issues relating to globalisation, provenance and the "flat" world of films, internet and mass media. Here's an excerpt from the Introduction:

"the Classic art genres seem even fresher, more alive than the new media. Why is that?

The explanation might be simple. Globalisation is art, intertwined with the spirit of democratization that sought out the universal common denominator ... It has become the background against which any real gesture suddenly stands out ... The physical presence of real people, things, places, works of art, acquires a whole new force, meaning and intensity.

And because an encounter is no longer centred around the exchange of information - since all data is permanently and universally available - a simple happening such as common experiencing of a present unique moment in a specific place becomes a luxury and a real joy."


Again thought-provoking and poignant.


I also had the chance to walk through several other collections, including works by Claude Monet (his brush strokes are so perfect, can't wait to visit his garden in France), Vincent Van Gogh (whose work bestows incredible emotions and reflections of the artist) and Pablo Picasso (whose work I saw in Barcelona, but again it was the constant tendency to evolve according to different influences amazed me). I also had the chance to see a painting by my favourite, Joan Miro, as well as Gustav Klimt (a favourite of Pa's) an Edvard Munch. What a venue!


DINING IN THE STABLES OF OLD PRAGUE
Having survived on bread and cheese up until mid-afternoon I was keen to find somewhere for a decent sit-down meal. Back into the city on the subway and within minutes of entering Old Prague I had stumbled across something extraordinary. Presenting nothing more than a door at street level I decided to take my chances with a restaurant called Pasta Fresca (Fresh Pasta) (website) ... needless to say I am over-loaded with carbohydrates at the moment. Upon entering I was greeted with shocked faces of people who mustn't have thought a baby-faced Australian tourist belonged in their hidden local gem. I was led through a labyrinth-like series of tunnels, staircases and rooms down into a basement which I later discovered had been a horse stable from the 14th Century. Hanging from the irregular ceilings were elaborate lighting fixtures and a tasteful range of decor - I knew I was onto a winner.

The waiter oozed with charisma, craftily managing to convince me to up-size my glass of Pilsner Urquell. The Pilsner type of beer actually originates from the Czech Republic so it was only fitting that I fall in suit with the locals. I ordered Gnocchi with Truffles and Truffle Butter sided by stale Brussel sprouts that had been fried with garlic. This was complimented by some fresh bread to be dipped in olive oil and balsamic. The indulgence went further as the crafty waiter convinced me to have the Italian vanilla ice-cream encased in crushed pistachios with a seductive chocolate sauce poured on top.

A brisk walk back to the hostel with an early night in store to make preparations for a train trip tomorrow.