Arrived in Berlin this afternoon and after negotiating the city's intricate web of public transport I found my hostel in the suburb of Kreuzberg. It was a gorgeous sunny afternoon so I decided to take a walk through the neighbourhood ... I was trying to find a couple of shops I had seen written about in magazines but had no luck, upon researching in more detail on the web I found out that the entrances to these places, in particular a book shop was very discrete. It's one of those areas, you know with all the hidden gems waiting to be found. Instead I stumbled upon a really funky screen-printing studio, an organic/eco-friendly supermarket and a fantastic Indian restaurant where I enjoyed a late lunch/early dinner feast.
It's hard to explain the flavour of this neighbourhood, although I was never there, New York during the '70s comes to mind. It has a large immigrant population, which was and still is dominated by the Turkish community, but over time has become a hot bed for art and bohemian culture. As in any neighbourhood this flood of creativity soon brings may followers, rent rises and the artists and low-income earners are forced to move elsewhere.
Even though this process is very apparent in Kreuzberg it still has a very raw quality. Graffiti, beggars, immigrants, artists, alternatives, musicians, trendy cafes and restaurants, un-kept streets, well-used public spaces, cyclists, young families ... creates a unique mix of cultural layers. Anyway this is an environment you feel ... and I must say it keeps you on your toes. I found myself reluctant to intrude on its ambience by pulling out my camera as I thought it might somehow destroy the beauty of the place.
On a sunny afternoon, a walk through Gorlitzer Park is like entering another world. It's kind of like entering a remote hippy commune only its in the middle of a dense city. There were kids playing on a soccer field, kids throwing themselves down a huge slide, some adults trying to tight-rope along a strap tied to two trees, kids riding their bike, musicians strumming their guitars, young people drinking beer (drinking in public is commonplace) ... but there was one area that really captured my imagine. It is perhaps the best example of unstructured play I have ever since in a public urban space.
So, there was a van, called the Spielwagen (website) which carries a vast collection of play equipment that can be spread out over a public park or square. During the warmer months they circulate between all the major public spaces in Berlin, also catering for private functions. Its not rocket-science, just good old-school equipment ... ropes, balancing beams, rolling drums, billy carts, balls, ladders, slides ... and the best thing is that the kids can pick them up, move them around and appropriate them as they want. It was a pleasure to watch, especially after watching my nephews and niece grow up as well as studying unstructured outdoor play at university. What also made the experience unique was that these were the kids of liberal-thinking creatives and immigrants whom are willing to give their children the opportunity to test the boundaries, get dirty and just be kids. I should mention that this liberty also extends pass the park boundaries, kids can been seen crawling around the pavement as the parents wait in-line outside a trendy cafe, or riding their bikes behind their parents along the road. As a result these kids' motor and social skills appear very well-developed for their age - what a blessing of growing up in such a rich cultural environment and what interesting adults they are sure to become.
During a conversation with the owner of the hostel I am staying in I have just learned that Gorlitzer Park was once home to Berlin's main train station. It was bombed during WW2 and was later reincarnated as a park ... Now it is host to the most vibrant of children's play. He also mentioned a big event during last winter which saw a massive snowball fight between the neighbouring suburbs of Kreuzberg and Neukolln, click here to see Youtube clip.
Monday, March 21, 2011
Sunday, March 20, 2011
A SUNDAY DAY OUT
MORNING STROLL
This morning started with a breakfast of hand-made bread and goats cheese from yesterday's Farmers' market. Then it was time for a morning stroll. My destination was Letenske sady, a park which overlooks the city from the north. Perhaps the park would have been better name Letenske "sadly" because the lookout, which house a very strange giant pendulum was in a state of disrepair. Despite the undeniable beauty of Prague there are aspects where are run-down. For example, roads can be badly surfaced by then lined by perfectly paved cobble stone paths. The subway system is in need of a face lift and just doesn't have the efficiency of Vienna. Then I noticed on the way to Prague from Vienna the countryside looked neglected from a government point of view. So the vision of a perfect city is not quite right.
MUSEUM AND GALLERY
Anyway, I continued on my way and dropped into the newly re-opened National Technical Museum. Of particular note was their exhibition on astronomy which included audio-visual displays that traced the study of outer space from Ancient Egypt, through to Galileo in Italy and right up to the latest Hubble telescope. It also included a comprehensive collection of different measurement implements from sundials to telescopes. It was a remarkably humbling experience and puts the evolution of science within context, a good follow-on from Strahovska Library yesterday. By presenting different remote sensing techniques, from X-ray to Infrared to Optical telescopes, you begin to recognise how our biological senses conditions our perception of the world. Technology is expanding our senses and causing advancement more rapid than any other period. If we manage to avoid ecological collapse this advancement is sure to continue and perhaps as we transcend our obsession with consumerism we will be able think and live on entirely new levels ... perhaps the futuristic visions of sci-fi films, including Avatar, not so distant.
I then visited the Veletrzni Palace which is said to host the city's best collection of modern art. I do not disagree, in fact it is probably the best collection of art I have ever visited. The first exhibition, Across Today (website), presented contemporary art from around the world addressing issues relating to globalisation, provenance and the "flat" world of films, internet and mass media. Here's an excerpt from the Introduction:
"the Classic art genres seem even fresher, more alive than the new media. Why is that?
The explanation might be simple. Globalisation is art, intertwined with the spirit of democratization that sought out the universal common denominator ... It has become the background against which any real gesture suddenly stands out ... The physical presence of real people, things, places, works of art, acquires a whole new force, meaning and intensity.
And because an encounter is no longer centred around the exchange of information - since all data is permanently and universally available - a simple happening such as common experiencing of a present unique moment in a specific place becomes a luxury and a real joy."
Again thought-provoking and poignant.
I also had the chance to walk through several other collections, including works by Claude Monet (his brush strokes are so perfect, can't wait to visit his garden in France), Vincent Van Gogh (whose work bestows incredible emotions and reflections of the artist) and Pablo Picasso (whose work I saw in Barcelona, but again it was the constant tendency to evolve according to different influences amazed me). I also had the chance to see a painting by my favourite, Joan Miro, as well as Gustav Klimt (a favourite of Pa's) an Edvard Munch. What a venue!
DINING IN THE STABLES OF OLD PRAGUE
Having survived on bread and cheese up until mid-afternoon I was keen to find somewhere for a decent sit-down meal. Back into the city on the subway and within minutes of entering Old Prague I had stumbled across something extraordinary. Presenting nothing more than a door at street level I decided to take my chances with a restaurant called Pasta Fresca (Fresh Pasta) (website) ... needless to say I am over-loaded with carbohydrates at the moment. Upon entering I was greeted with shocked faces of people who mustn't have thought a baby-faced Australian tourist belonged in their hidden local gem. I was led through a labyrinth-like series of tunnels, staircases and rooms down into a basement which I later discovered had been a horse stable from the 14th Century. Hanging from the irregular ceilings were elaborate lighting fixtures and a tasteful range of decor - I knew I was onto a winner.
The waiter oozed with charisma, craftily managing to convince me to up-size my glass of Pilsner Urquell. The Pilsner type of beer actually originates from the Czech Republic so it was only fitting that I fall in suit with the locals. I ordered Gnocchi with Truffles and Truffle Butter sided by stale Brussel sprouts that had been fried with garlic. This was complimented by some fresh bread to be dipped in olive oil and balsamic. The indulgence went further as the crafty waiter convinced me to have the Italian vanilla ice-cream encased in crushed pistachios with a seductive chocolate sauce poured on top.
A brisk walk back to the hostel with an early night in store to make preparations for a train trip tomorrow.
This morning started with a breakfast of hand-made bread and goats cheese from yesterday's Farmers' market. Then it was time for a morning stroll. My destination was Letenske sady, a park which overlooks the city from the north. Perhaps the park would have been better name Letenske "sadly" because the lookout, which house a very strange giant pendulum was in a state of disrepair. Despite the undeniable beauty of Prague there are aspects where are run-down. For example, roads can be badly surfaced by then lined by perfectly paved cobble stone paths. The subway system is in need of a face lift and just doesn't have the efficiency of Vienna. Then I noticed on the way to Prague from Vienna the countryside looked neglected from a government point of view. So the vision of a perfect city is not quite right.
MUSEUM AND GALLERY
Anyway, I continued on my way and dropped into the newly re-opened National Technical Museum. Of particular note was their exhibition on astronomy which included audio-visual displays that traced the study of outer space from Ancient Egypt, through to Galileo in Italy and right up to the latest Hubble telescope. It also included a comprehensive collection of different measurement implements from sundials to telescopes. It was a remarkably humbling experience and puts the evolution of science within context, a good follow-on from Strahovska Library yesterday. By presenting different remote sensing techniques, from X-ray to Infrared to Optical telescopes, you begin to recognise how our biological senses conditions our perception of the world. Technology is expanding our senses and causing advancement more rapid than any other period. If we manage to avoid ecological collapse this advancement is sure to continue and perhaps as we transcend our obsession with consumerism we will be able think and live on entirely new levels ... perhaps the futuristic visions of sci-fi films, including Avatar, not so distant.
I then visited the Veletrzni Palace which is said to host the city's best collection of modern art. I do not disagree, in fact it is probably the best collection of art I have ever visited. The first exhibition, Across Today (website), presented contemporary art from around the world addressing issues relating to globalisation, provenance and the "flat" world of films, internet and mass media. Here's an excerpt from the Introduction:
"the Classic art genres seem even fresher, more alive than the new media. Why is that?
The explanation might be simple. Globalisation is art, intertwined with the spirit of democratization that sought out the universal common denominator ... It has become the background against which any real gesture suddenly stands out ... The physical presence of real people, things, places, works of art, acquires a whole new force, meaning and intensity.
And because an encounter is no longer centred around the exchange of information - since all data is permanently and universally available - a simple happening such as common experiencing of a present unique moment in a specific place becomes a luxury and a real joy."
Again thought-provoking and poignant.
I also had the chance to walk through several other collections, including works by Claude Monet (his brush strokes are so perfect, can't wait to visit his garden in France), Vincent Van Gogh (whose work bestows incredible emotions and reflections of the artist) and Pablo Picasso (whose work I saw in Barcelona, but again it was the constant tendency to evolve according to different influences amazed me). I also had the chance to see a painting by my favourite, Joan Miro, as well as Gustav Klimt (a favourite of Pa's) an Edvard Munch. What a venue!
DINING IN THE STABLES OF OLD PRAGUE
Having survived on bread and cheese up until mid-afternoon I was keen to find somewhere for a decent sit-down meal. Back into the city on the subway and within minutes of entering Old Prague I had stumbled across something extraordinary. Presenting nothing more than a door at street level I decided to take my chances with a restaurant called Pasta Fresca (Fresh Pasta) (website) ... needless to say I am over-loaded with carbohydrates at the moment. Upon entering I was greeted with shocked faces of people who mustn't have thought a baby-faced Australian tourist belonged in their hidden local gem. I was led through a labyrinth-like series of tunnels, staircases and rooms down into a basement which I later discovered had been a horse stable from the 14th Century. Hanging from the irregular ceilings were elaborate lighting fixtures and a tasteful range of decor - I knew I was onto a winner.
The waiter oozed with charisma, craftily managing to convince me to up-size my glass of Pilsner Urquell. The Pilsner type of beer actually originates from the Czech Republic so it was only fitting that I fall in suit with the locals. I ordered Gnocchi with Truffles and Truffle Butter sided by stale Brussel sprouts that had been fried with garlic. This was complimented by some fresh bread to be dipped in olive oil and balsamic. The indulgence went further as the crafty waiter convinced me to have the Italian vanilla ice-cream encased in crushed pistachios with a seductive chocolate sauce poured on top.
A brisk walk back to the hostel with an early night in store to make preparations for a train trip tomorrow.
Saturday, March 19, 2011
ELECTRONIC BEATS MAGAZINE
Came across this magazine while browsing through the hostel's lounge collection ... found some interesting things:
- BERLIN GUIDES: http://berlin.unlike.net/locations/303544-HAU3, visitberlin.de
ART
- Eugenie Grandet (exhibition in Paris November 2011, more)
FOOD
- BERLIN: theshychef.wordpress.com , foodorama: carbon neutral cafe
MUSIC
- ELIPHINO (Electronic ... Song: I Just Can't)
- RUSS YALLOP (Electronic ... Song: I Can't Wait)
- DIETER MEIER (Song: Oh Yeah)
- UNDERWOLD (Song: Born Slippy***)
- SPIRIT CATCHER (Song: No Way out)
FASHION
- MONO-GRAMM, BERLIN-BASED FASHION LABEL (collab. with dancers)
mono.gramm a/w 2010
Fashion Lookbook / 2010 / Berlin
Commissioned by mono.gramm / Berlin
Styling / Saskia Schmidt
Hair & Makeup / Julie Skok
Model / Anna Sartison / Seeds
Dance Images / ‘wound’ by cie. toula limnaios
The Autumn/Winter 2010 collection by mono.gramm is based upon dance and the effect of movement on clothes. Assisting the rehearsals of Berlin-based dance company cie. toula limnaios, the cuts and silhouettes of the winter season refer to shapes and figures of modern dance, creating a unique symbiosis between body and dress
DANCE
- JUKE (web)
- FOOTWORK (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ZyaYeq38Ao)
- BERLIN CHOREOGRAPHERS: Constanza Mackas (web), Toula Limnaios, HALLE (web)
- HAU3 (Dance studio, Berlin)
28 JAHRE IN 28 MINUTEN - SOLO VON NIELS „STORM" ROBITZKY / NHIEU MAT (GESICHTER) - CHOREOGRAFIE: RAPHAEL HILLEBRAND & SÉBASTIEN RAMIREZ
23.03.2011 / 19.30 UHR / HAU 1 - BOOK TICKETS
24.03.2011 / 19.30 UHR / HAU 1 - BOOK TICKETS
23. and 24. March
Double evening:
28 Jahre in 28 Minuten
Solo by Niels “Storm” Robitzky
In his new solo Niels “Storm” Robitzky, one of Europe’s most famous hip hoppers, goes on a time travel. In 28 minutes he looks back on 28 years. Almost half a life in which he experienced a lot as a human and as a dancer. In the Eighties Storm got into contact with pioneering hip hop dancers while travelling through Europe and North America, and he began to teach himself different hip hop styles. Meanwhile he is being invited to symposiums and workshops as an expert to explain hip hop as a dance style and social phenomenon. But the past 28 years are also an historical epoch in which a lot of things have happened. Just think of the political changes in 1989 that meant an end to Cold War and the fall of the Berlin Wall. “28 years in 28 minutes” blends private and political matters together in a time-lapse.
A co-production by MOOV’N AKTION and Jean Vilar – Suresnes Cités Danse 2011, supported by HAU.
Nhiều mặt (Gesichter)
Choreography: Raphael Hillebrand and Sébastien Ramirez
In their play „Nhiều mặt“ nine young hip hoppers from Hanoi and the choreographers Raphael Hillebrand and Sébastien Ramirez confront the central questions in life: What is their biggest dream? What is love? How do they imagine their future as hip hop dancers? And what does it mean to grow up in a country like Vietnam that is ambivalently positioned in-between tradition and swift transformation? The answers of the young artists are both surprising and manifold, same as the forms of expression that they choose: B-boying, popping, locking, traditional dances, pop songs or beat-boxing, in accord with classical Vietnamese instruments. The young Vietnamese country has many faces.
A co-production by Goethe Institute Vietnam, L’Espace – Centre Culturel Français and MOOV’N AKTION. With support by the Fonds Elysée. The performance in Berlin will be supported by the Goethe Institute Vietnam
-
- BERLIN GUIDES: http://berlin.unlike.net/locations/303544-HAU3, visitberlin.de
ART
- Eugenie Grandet (exhibition in Paris November 2011, more)
FOOD
- BERLIN: theshychef.wordpress.com , foodorama: carbon neutral cafe
MUSIC
- ELIPHINO (Electronic ... Song: I Just Can't)
- RUSS YALLOP (Electronic ... Song: I Can't Wait)
- DIETER MEIER (Song: Oh Yeah)
- UNDERWOLD (Song: Born Slippy***)
- SPIRIT CATCHER (Song: No Way out)
FASHION
- MONO-GRAMM, BERLIN-BASED FASHION LABEL (collab. with dancers)
mono.gramm a/w 2010
Fashion Lookbook / 2010 / Berlin
Commissioned by mono.gramm / Berlin
Styling / Saskia Schmidt
Hair & Makeup / Julie Skok
Model / Anna Sartison / Seeds
Dance Images / ‘wound’ by cie. toula limnaios
The Autumn/Winter 2010 collection by mono.gramm is based upon dance and the effect of movement on clothes. Assisting the rehearsals of Berlin-based dance company cie. toula limnaios, the cuts and silhouettes of the winter season refer to shapes and figures of modern dance, creating a unique symbiosis between body and dress
DANCE
- JUKE (web)
- FOOTWORK (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ZyaYeq38Ao)
- BERLIN CHOREOGRAPHERS: Constanza Mackas (web), Toula Limnaios, HALLE (web)
- HAU3 (Dance studio, Berlin)
28 JAHRE IN 28 MINUTEN - SOLO VON NIELS „STORM" ROBITZKY / NHIEU MAT (GESICHTER) - CHOREOGRAFIE: RAPHAEL HILLEBRAND & SÉBASTIEN RAMIREZ
23.03.2011 / 19.30 UHR / HAU 1 - BOOK TICKETS
24.03.2011 / 19.30 UHR / HAU 1 - BOOK TICKETS
23. and 24. March
Double evening:
28 Jahre in 28 Minuten
Solo by Niels “Storm” Robitzky
In his new solo Niels “Storm” Robitzky, one of Europe’s most famous hip hoppers, goes on a time travel. In 28 minutes he looks back on 28 years. Almost half a life in which he experienced a lot as a human and as a dancer. In the Eighties Storm got into contact with pioneering hip hop dancers while travelling through Europe and North America, and he began to teach himself different hip hop styles. Meanwhile he is being invited to symposiums and workshops as an expert to explain hip hop as a dance style and social phenomenon. But the past 28 years are also an historical epoch in which a lot of things have happened. Just think of the political changes in 1989 that meant an end to Cold War and the fall of the Berlin Wall. “28 years in 28 minutes” blends private and political matters together in a time-lapse.
A co-production by MOOV’N AKTION and Jean Vilar – Suresnes Cités Danse 2011, supported by HAU.
Nhiều mặt (Gesichter)
Choreography: Raphael Hillebrand and Sébastien Ramirez
In their play „Nhiều mặt“ nine young hip hoppers from Hanoi and the choreographers Raphael Hillebrand and Sébastien Ramirez confront the central questions in life: What is their biggest dream? What is love? How do they imagine their future as hip hop dancers? And what does it mean to grow up in a country like Vietnam that is ambivalently positioned in-between tradition and swift transformation? The answers of the young artists are both surprising and manifold, same as the forms of expression that they choose: B-boying, popping, locking, traditional dances, pop songs or beat-boxing, in accord with classical Vietnamese instruments. The young Vietnamese country has many faces.
A co-production by Goethe Institute Vietnam, L’Espace – Centre Culturel Français and MOOV’N AKTION. With support by the Fonds Elysée. The performance in Berlin will be supported by the Goethe Institute Vietnam
-
PRAGUE - FARMERS' MARKETS, MONASTERY BREWERIES AND MODERN ART
A delightful day out in Prague today. Off to a Farmer's Market first thing where I picked up some beautiful biscuits and pastries for breakfast, and a hot chocolate. It was fun to see some traditional Czech food and be able to compare the market to those back home.
Then it was across the Vitava River and hiked up through a park to Petrin Tower (with a little impromptu rock climbing along the way just for kicks). The view from the tower was stunning, Prague really is the most beautiful city in the world - thank goodness it escaped WW2 bombing. Apparently Hitler wanted to keep it as a 'Musuem'. Wow!
For lunch I dropped into the famous Strahov Monastery after being told it had a fantastic brewery. In short, it does. Started with an amber ale which was a little warm, but I didn't mind this at all considering I was outside and in Prague its freezing at the moment. No snow, but my hands did feel like they had frozen at one point. The brew was pretty potent stuff so I sobered up by dropping into the monastery's other famed asset, its library. (Photo) (Website)
The library is a symbol of the Age of Enlightenment (mid-17th to 18th centuries) with collections of insects, butterflies and other preserved creatures within the Cabinet of Curiosities. Then there is the Theological Hall and Philosophical Hall each with their own collection of marvelous books. It shows how far we have come with science and technological within the space of a couple of hundred years. It does make you question the deterioration of the humanities in modern universities and our unquestioning acceptance of modern science. As we continue our search for truth you wonder if there will ever be a revival of the non-material ... or is perhaps physics going to take us there anyway. Thought-provoking stuff.
I returned to the brewery to continue my contemplation, that's what monasteries are for right? Well, yes, but they have also perfected the craft of beer and make a wonderful beef stew encased in hand-made bread. The way the relationship between art and Christianity has baffled me, this relationship between beer and religion is also a little bizarre. Oh well.
Once I had finished my trip into one old world I was off to visit another, Prague Castle. Another extremely exquisite building, immaculately preserved, but what do you expect I'm in Prague!
Back to the present, I headed back across the river and into the Rudolfinium Gallery (website) to see an exhibition on the 2010 Czech Grand Design Awards and an exhibition called 'Mutating Medium', which traces the evolution of photography over the past two decades. Both were great, in the Design exhibition (Website) the winner of the Fashion Award stood out (Hana Zarubora, Fix-yo) as did Salim Issa in the photography section.
I have found visiting art galleries a good way to experience new cities, museum's can be a little heavy and dry, but galleries tend to inspire and give a good sense for the creative spirit of a place. Each country has its own cultural and historical background so you often see some pretty unique things.
Finished the afternoon by walking back along the river as the setting sun was spraying golden light across Prague's beautiful buildings. Back to the hostel ... still full from the lunch, although I do have a loaf of hand-made bread from the Farmer's Market and a slab of goats cheese still in hand but might leave that for tomorrow. An organic apple and apple strudel might suffice for tea, also from the market.
Tomorrow's agenda? You will just have to wait and see.
Then it was across the Vitava River and hiked up through a park to Petrin Tower (with a little impromptu rock climbing along the way just for kicks). The view from the tower was stunning, Prague really is the most beautiful city in the world - thank goodness it escaped WW2 bombing. Apparently Hitler wanted to keep it as a 'Musuem'. Wow!
For lunch I dropped into the famous Strahov Monastery after being told it had a fantastic brewery. In short, it does. Started with an amber ale which was a little warm, but I didn't mind this at all considering I was outside and in Prague its freezing at the moment. No snow, but my hands did feel like they had frozen at one point. The brew was pretty potent stuff so I sobered up by dropping into the monastery's other famed asset, its library. (Photo) (Website)
The library is a symbol of the Age of Enlightenment (mid-17th to 18th centuries) with collections of insects, butterflies and other preserved creatures within the Cabinet of Curiosities. Then there is the Theological Hall and Philosophical Hall each with their own collection of marvelous books. It shows how far we have come with science and technological within the space of a couple of hundred years. It does make you question the deterioration of the humanities in modern universities and our unquestioning acceptance of modern science. As we continue our search for truth you wonder if there will ever be a revival of the non-material ... or is perhaps physics going to take us there anyway. Thought-provoking stuff.
I returned to the brewery to continue my contemplation, that's what monasteries are for right? Well, yes, but they have also perfected the craft of beer and make a wonderful beef stew encased in hand-made bread. The way the relationship between art and Christianity has baffled me, this relationship between beer and religion is also a little bizarre. Oh well.
Once I had finished my trip into one old world I was off to visit another, Prague Castle. Another extremely exquisite building, immaculately preserved, but what do you expect I'm in Prague!
Back to the present, I headed back across the river and into the Rudolfinium Gallery (website) to see an exhibition on the 2010 Czech Grand Design Awards and an exhibition called 'Mutating Medium', which traces the evolution of photography over the past two decades. Both were great, in the Design exhibition (Website) the winner of the Fashion Award stood out (Hana Zarubora, Fix-yo) as did Salim Issa in the photography section.
I have found visiting art galleries a good way to experience new cities, museum's can be a little heavy and dry, but galleries tend to inspire and give a good sense for the creative spirit of a place. Each country has its own cultural and historical background so you often see some pretty unique things.
Finished the afternoon by walking back along the river as the setting sun was spraying golden light across Prague's beautiful buildings. Back to the hostel ... still full from the lunch, although I do have a loaf of hand-made bread from the Farmer's Market and a slab of goats cheese still in hand but might leave that for tomorrow. An organic apple and apple strudel might suffice for tea, also from the market.
Tomorrow's agenda? You will just have to wait and see.
Thursday, March 17, 2011
INTO THE WOMB
What a random title for a blog, BUT if you choose to continue reading you’ll find out why it fits. I started the morning by dropping into a supermarket to pick up some breakfast and lunch, a tub of yogurt, a few beautiful multigrain rolls (the bread in these supermarkets is not the like the home-brands of Coles or Safeway) and a slab of cheese. Then, onto a subway train and a tram as I set out for a day at Oberlaa Therme, Vienna’s thermal baths. (Website) The public transport is so efficient here that I arrived at my destination without confusion or delay.
The tram takes you right to the front door, in fact the tram is named 67 Oberlaa Therme Wien – that’s German precision for you. I walked through a light mist of rain towards a mammoth complex, it’s not like the hot springs at Rye, but it is equally as wonderful. Because of the public transport systems efficiency I arrived a little before 9am, the foyer was open and people were already lining up. The main visitors were retirees getting their weekly dose of exercise and natural therapy. There was also couples with their babies, and some of my own generation.
At the clock approached 9 the anticipation built, there was already thirty people and the attendants at the desk were not letting anyone in early. When it came my time to approach the desk I was given a wrist band, a locker key, and to my surprise did not to pay anything – that was to come later.
The building operated across three levels, the basement is home to all the lockers and changing ‘cabins’, Level 1 has all the action with a vast array of bathing experiences and Level 2 has hundreds of lounges to relax as well as a restaurant and cafe. A shop, hair salon and all means of beautification all exist within the complex.
Now, I walked down a broad staircase into the basement, around a corner and then, aisle after aisle of changing cabins and lockers. My locker was 940, that alone gives you an idea of the somewhat industrialised feeling of this place. I found my locker, nicked into a changing room and then asked myself, is this a bather-on or bathers-off type of place? The boardies went on and that turned out to be the right decision ... it could have gone either way.
Walking up to Level 1 I wasn’t sure what to expect. I had studied the website, and understood that the pools were set in Stones (like zones, but they have philosophical context). It was the start of the day so I thought its probably best to do the most active things now because hopefully later I will be pulled into Zen-like bliss. So, off to the water slides ... I grabbed an inflatable tube to ride down and followed behind a couple of teenagers having a day out. Hahaha. Within moments I was a kid again ... dropped the tube, then down the skinny fast slide ... back up, down again ... I kept going until I was sufficiently dizzy.
Next, diving board? A one metre diving board is not something I have much experience with ... maybe only the memory of being mortally “winded” on a childhood trip to the MSAC in Melbourne. I approached with caution, but before long I had developed a way of entering the water without too much pain.
Then it was off to the whirlpool ... and through a tunnel which connects indoor and outdoor pools ... another water slide ... some time in the lap pool ... then inside to a cave-like pool with bubble-beds and waterfalls ... and so it went, I continued moving from zone to zone, pool to pool ... each experience defined by its own space ... variations in light, water temperature, depths, ceiling heights, water animation, size, shape, materials and people.
Before long I found that Zen-like bliss I had been longing for.
My favourite experience was the Grotto, a zig-zagging tunnel that draws you into its womb-like atmosphere. It has a series of submerged bench seats and lounges which offer you the chance to let your mind wander, or just go completely numb. The water envelopes you as if it was liquid silk and you gently sway to the movement generated by soft underwater jets. As you close your eyes you listen to dampened gurgles and drift away into endless space...
Lunch time approached so I made one last dash to the water playground to see if my heightened state of awareness would help my diving endeavours. Up onto the board, along and jump ... the next thing I remember was slipping through the water, my ears compressing until I gently touched the bottom of the pool (maybe 7 metres below the surface) and slowly made my way up to surface. Success.
Then a few jumps off the 3 and 4 metre platforms and onto lunch. The afternoon was much the same as the morning ... ending in a failed attempt to take some photos of the pools to show you all (I was stopped by an employee protecting the companies image, and visitors privacy). You will have to be content with their website.
On the ride back into Vienna, which is only around 20 minutes away, my muscles were still completely relaxed and my brain was ready for sleep. A few hours later I’ve been able to resist that urge, but I will sleep well tonight. (Or perhaps not, as its St Patricks Day ... but that’s another story)
PS: As I was leaving Oberlaa Therme Wien I handed in my wristband, my hours were tallied and 20 Euros ($30 AUS)later I was on my way.
The tram takes you right to the front door, in fact the tram is named 67 Oberlaa Therme Wien – that’s German precision for you. I walked through a light mist of rain towards a mammoth complex, it’s not like the hot springs at Rye, but it is equally as wonderful. Because of the public transport systems efficiency I arrived a little before 9am, the foyer was open and people were already lining up. The main visitors were retirees getting their weekly dose of exercise and natural therapy. There was also couples with their babies, and some of my own generation.
At the clock approached 9 the anticipation built, there was already thirty people and the attendants at the desk were not letting anyone in early. When it came my time to approach the desk I was given a wrist band, a locker key, and to my surprise did not to pay anything – that was to come later.
The building operated across three levels, the basement is home to all the lockers and changing ‘cabins’, Level 1 has all the action with a vast array of bathing experiences and Level 2 has hundreds of lounges to relax as well as a restaurant and cafe. A shop, hair salon and all means of beautification all exist within the complex.
Now, I walked down a broad staircase into the basement, around a corner and then, aisle after aisle of changing cabins and lockers. My locker was 940, that alone gives you an idea of the somewhat industrialised feeling of this place. I found my locker, nicked into a changing room and then asked myself, is this a bather-on or bathers-off type of place? The boardies went on and that turned out to be the right decision ... it could have gone either way.
Walking up to Level 1 I wasn’t sure what to expect. I had studied the website, and understood that the pools were set in Stones (like zones, but they have philosophical context). It was the start of the day so I thought its probably best to do the most active things now because hopefully later I will be pulled into Zen-like bliss. So, off to the water slides ... I grabbed an inflatable tube to ride down and followed behind a couple of teenagers having a day out. Hahaha. Within moments I was a kid again ... dropped the tube, then down the skinny fast slide ... back up, down again ... I kept going until I was sufficiently dizzy.
Next, diving board? A one metre diving board is not something I have much experience with ... maybe only the memory of being mortally “winded” on a childhood trip to the MSAC in Melbourne. I approached with caution, but before long I had developed a way of entering the water without too much pain.
Then it was off to the whirlpool ... and through a tunnel which connects indoor and outdoor pools ... another water slide ... some time in the lap pool ... then inside to a cave-like pool with bubble-beds and waterfalls ... and so it went, I continued moving from zone to zone, pool to pool ... each experience defined by its own space ... variations in light, water temperature, depths, ceiling heights, water animation, size, shape, materials and people.
Before long I found that Zen-like bliss I had been longing for.
My favourite experience was the Grotto, a zig-zagging tunnel that draws you into its womb-like atmosphere. It has a series of submerged bench seats and lounges which offer you the chance to let your mind wander, or just go completely numb. The water envelopes you as if it was liquid silk and you gently sway to the movement generated by soft underwater jets. As you close your eyes you listen to dampened gurgles and drift away into endless space...
Lunch time approached so I made one last dash to the water playground to see if my heightened state of awareness would help my diving endeavours. Up onto the board, along and jump ... the next thing I remember was slipping through the water, my ears compressing until I gently touched the bottom of the pool (maybe 7 metres below the surface) and slowly made my way up to surface. Success.
Then a few jumps off the 3 and 4 metre platforms and onto lunch. The afternoon was much the same as the morning ... ending in a failed attempt to take some photos of the pools to show you all (I was stopped by an employee protecting the companies image, and visitors privacy). You will have to be content with their website.
On the ride back into Vienna, which is only around 20 minutes away, my muscles were still completely relaxed and my brain was ready for sleep. A few hours later I’ve been able to resist that urge, but I will sleep well tonight. (Or perhaps not, as its St Patricks Day ... but that’s another story)
PS: As I was leaving Oberlaa Therme Wien I handed in my wristband, my hours were tallied and 20 Euros ($30 AUS)later I was on my way.
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